Showing posts with label tools. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tools. Show all posts

Thursday, June 5, 2008

New Tools Arrived--Bead & Button Weekend!

My new tools arrived today from Scott over at BearFootArt after several weeks of waiting for them to be made. I can't wait to try them out, but it just so happens that this is Bead & Button weekend!

I saw them demoed last year at the Bead & Button Show and I've watched the movies of them in action. There's a number of new techniques that I want to try once I get used the new tools. Keep an eye on my Etsy Shop for some new designs!

Bead & Button Show

I'll be heading up to Milwaukee on Saturday to spend the day looking at all the new toys and glass at the market. If you're in the area, I would really recommend it.

The market is huge and you can see glass beads from artists around the world, new glass vendors for both Boro and soft glass, new tools, suppliers and just about anything else you can imagine in the bead and jewelry market.

Last year I was fortunate to take a class there and spend several days, but that just didn't work out this year. Maybe next year, but I'm not missing the market!

Watch Out For The Breaking Wave

My latest focal bead that I will be adding to Etsy tomorrow is entitled "The Breaking Wave" since the design on the bead at the top looks a lot like a wave on a very deep ocean. Ivory foam of the the wave pours over the side along the surface in a very cool design.

The deep ocean currents are a variety of the deep rich colors in greens and grays, while the upper portion of the bead is dominated with light purples and ivory colors.

This bicone is accented with rich black ends that make the colors really stand out.

Don't forget to stop by My Shop tomorrow and see the new bead. This one will be posted in the mid-morning time.

Sleep Tight!

Thursday, April 24, 2008

Web Site Update - Earring Gallery

As I'm typing this blog entry, the Earring Gallery 2008 on my web site is being doubled in size with 34 more pictures of my latest earring designs.

I've got more to make yet, so I'm not done, but I've run out of earring findings at the moment and will need to order up some more soon.

I hope you enjoy these new designs. Don't be shy about it. Let me know what you think by posting a note either here or on my web site--www.LampOfLuxury.com.

Check out the web site's What's New section for more information on the update.

New Tools Coming

I've ordered up some new tools tonight that I cannot wait to get my hands on and try out. I've been wanting these tools since last June and now I have ordered them up.

Hopefully they will ship soon as these will enable me to take my beads to a new level of design and different plane of execution...I hope.

When I get the hang of the tools, I'll be sure to let you know when the beads from them are coming and let you be the first to check them out.

Take Care!

Wednesday, February 13, 2008

Tools Of The Trade Part 4: The Price Is Right?

While strategies for pricing a work may not be considered a classic tool used by the artist, the technique of calculating a fair price for a work is an essential tool for any artisan that is in business.  Without an objective method of assessing a price, we run the risk of not being able to afford to continue our artistic pursuits.

As artists, we often struggle with how to price our items since we are creating items from base materials whether they are paint, fabric, stone, or in my case, glass.  Our creations are, hopefully, worth more than the materials we used to create them from, but how much  more?

When I first started out, I had no idea of how to price my work and just kind of did the "Shot In The Dark" method.  I find this tends to be how everyone initially starts pricing their items when they first start out.  At first we're thrilled that anyone would want what we've made.

At my first show that I attended with my lampwork beads, a teenager came up and asked about buying a couple of bead that he wanted.  When he asked the price and I told him, he looked up at me as said, "Why is it so expensive?  It's just sand, isn't it?" 

I didn't know how to respond to him.  I'd just lost a $20 sale and had no idea how to answer him and educate him at the same time.  He'd obviously never been exposed artisan beads and jewelry, and in comparison to the price he could get beads at the craft store, it did seem expensive to him.

After several years of selling my beads and jewelry, I was still guessing at the worth of my work so when I found a class at last year's Bead And Button Show on pricing artist's work, I signed up immediately.   I would highly recommend it for any artists out there who are struggling with pricing there work... and you know who you are!

Finally, someone was going to tell me how much my work was worth  WRONG!  What he did do was give the class a number of factors to consider before pricing our work since everyone in the room worked in a different medium.

The instructor worked in fine jewelry using gold, platinum, diamonds and other expensive materials in the fabrication of his jewelry.  So for him, he needed to really price out how much his material cost was going to be in order to weigh whether or not he would actually complete the work since the materials could end up pricing it right out of the market--no matter how fabulous it would have been.

Fortunately, I work in glass, sterling silver and natural stone instead of gold, platinum and diamonds.  

After spending hours working out formulas, spreadsheets, material pricing, etc., I found that my material costs really didn't impact much of the final price.  The most important factor in pricing my glass work turned out to be my TIME at the torch.

Time turned out to be such a factor, that it is almost the sole basis of pricing my lampwork.  I keep track of the time I work on making the set of beads or a single bead and then multiply it by my hourly wage that I pay myself (pretend you're your own boss), and that's the price of the set.

While lampwork glass can run anywhere from $8 per pound on up past $100 per pound, there really isn't a lot of weight involved in a set of beads. If there is a lot of weight in the beads, such as a large set of tigers, then there is also an equal amount of extra time needed to work and shape that extra glass which can be translated back into time spent in that set.

Well that seems pretty cut and dry and simple doesn't it?  Not so fast.  If I'm working out a new design or trying a technique that I'm not familiar with it may go much slower initially until I get the hang of it.   Is it fair to charge the first few customers of that style twice what it will cost the rest of the customers just because I wasn't as adept at that technique?  Of course not.

If I find that my time is unusually long on a particular bead or set of beads due to technical proficiency, then I examine the finished set and figure out the amount of time it should have taken and price it based upon that instead.

When it comes to pricing my jewelry and gift items that include my beads, then I must include the prices of the silver wire, toggles, findings, stones and other items into the cost of the piece.  Fortunately, I know what those costs are and that is an easy calculation to add them into the formula with the additional time of designing and stringing the items.

I always strive to give all of my customers good value for their money, but at the same time ensure that the prices I charge enable me to continue working in this wonderful medium.

If art was priced solely based upon the materials used, then I could buy a Picaso painting for the few dollars of paint and a canvas that it took to create it.

If I ever get asked again, "It's just sand, isn't it?"  I can guarantee you I'll know how to answer them this time around.

Friday, December 21, 2007

Tools Of The Trade Part 3 - Meet The Mandrels

It's time to meet the beadmakers friend, the mandrels.  No, I'm not referring to Barbara Mandrel and her sisters from the 70's TV show, but to the steel rods used when making beads.

"How do you get the holes into beads?  Do you drill them out?"

If only had a $1 every time someone asked me this question.  Time to demystify how the holes get into the beads.

While I suppose the glass could be drilled out, that would introduce stress back into the glass and could result in a lot of wasted beads.  The simplest way to the holes into the glass is to make the bead with the hole right there from the start.  Here's where the mandrels come into play.  

As you can see from the picture, the beads are created around the steel rod, so that when the rod is removed, a hole in each bead is already present.  The grayish-white stuff on the mandrels in the picture is called Bead Release, which is a liquid clay-like substance that each rod is dipped into and allowed to dry before the mandrel can be used in the torch.  

If the release is not fully dry before glass is applied, bubbles in the glass can form from the steam leaving the bead release and ruin the bead.  Without having the bead release on the mandrel, the bead would not come off after annealing.

Mandrels come in various sizes from over 1 inch thick (for very large holed beads), down to 1/16th of an inch for very tiny holes.  For beads that require marvering (shaping), I find the 1/16th mandrels are a bit too thin which is why bicones usually have a 3/32nd mandrel hole or larger.

Once the beads come off the mandrels, the bead release inside the beads must be removed.  Since the glass is wrapped onto the mandrels hot, the bead release sticks to the glass.  I use a specially design diamond drill bit to remove bead release and clean the holes so that there is not any release left inside.  

This is especially important for beads made with transparent colors where you can see the hole.

As always, if you have any questions or want to suggest topics, please do not hesitate to contact me either through this blog or on my web site or Etsy store at:

Saturday, December 1, 2007

Tools Of The Trade Part 2 - The Kiln

When most people think of kilns, pottery and clay jump to mind, but did you know that glass artists also use kilns? While potters use kilns designed for clay objects, glass artists use kilns that are specially designed for our needs.

Kilns come in two basic varieties for glass artists which I'll refer to as Annealers and Fusers.

Annealers

When working hot glass and turning into a bead, sculpture, vessel or anything else, stress is added to the glass. This stress, if not repaired, can cause the item to crack or break, sometimes they can even explode!

Annealing is the process of keeping the glass at the appropriate temperature for a period of time in order to allow the molecules to align and remove the stress from the glass. Depending upon the type of glass you are using determines the annealing temperature because not all glass is the same, but we'll save that topic for another time.

Annealer kilns do just what their name implies, they are used to anneal the glass and make it strong and durable. They do not get hot enough to actually melt glass or fuse it together, which brings us to the second type of kiln.

My current bead kiln is an annealer that is much larger than my first kiln so I can make more beads in a single session and not have to stop when t he kiln fills up. Here's a picture of my annealing kiln in my basement.



Fusers

This type of kiln can also be used to anneal glass, but they are not limited to just annealing. They have the ability to melt glass together to create different kinds of objects like plates, bowl, jewelry, etc.

Fusing does not use a torch like lampworking, instead pieces of cut glass are laid into a cold kiln and arranged into the pattern or design desired. The kiln is then heated (slowly to prevent glass breakage) to the glass' melting point where it fuses into a single piece of glass. Once the glass has fused sufficiently for the artist's design, the kiln is cooled down to annealing temperate and allowed to anneal and then cool slowly to room temperature.



The first kiln I bought for beadmaking was a fusing kiln since I thought I might want the flexibility to fuse as well as anneal. It's a great kiln and I still have it. The above picture is of me putting a bead into the kiln for annealing.


As always, if you have any questions or would like to suggest topics, I can be reached through this blog or through my web site or shop at:
http://www.lampofluxury.com
http://BurningScentsations.etsy.com

Enjoy your weekend!

Monday, November 26, 2007

Tools Of The Trade Part 1 - The Torch

Probably the most important tool (or at least in the top two) for any lampwork artist is their torch. Without this tool, we would be unable to melt the glass and create our work. In my short career as a glass artist, I have used three different types of torches. Allow me to elaborate...


Hot Head Torch

This is the first torch I ever used to melt glass and was one of the tools that I received in the kit that came with my first beadmaking class at O'Reilly's Stained Glass in Crystal Lake.
It uses a single fuel source, a canister of Mapp gas or some other gas, to melt the glass. The design of the head pulls in oxygen from the air in order to create an appropriate flame for working the glass.

It's a very good head for learning how to work the glass because it is just hot enough to melt the glass, but the glass does not get so that it becomes too runny and hard to control. Many lampworkers start off on this particular type of torch, but it does have some drawbacks (at least for me).

I'll just say it outright: I am impatient by nature. I do not like waiting for something or spending large amounts of time on a single task. While I know this torch has a very loyal following (some folks use them for years), I worked with this torch for exactly 3 weeks, and here's why:

Aside from the noise that this torch makes (and it is very noisy), it takes a long time to get enough of the glass melted in order to create the bead I was working on. It would take 5-10 minutes just to get enough glass onto the mandrel for the bead I was making, and I wasn't making large beads yet since I did not have a kiln yet (more on that in a later posting).

In addition, since there is not a separate oxygen fuel source, the flame tends to cause some colors to not come out properly; they may come out in a completely different color than they are supposed to. Oxygen is a key ingredient to working with glass as you will see in upcoming posts since it reacts with the metals in the glass to create the various colors.

Minor Torch

After my three weeks on a Hot Head, I anxiously awaited my tax refund, and then set out to upgrade my equipment. One of the things I purchased was a new Minor torch.

This is a minor torch, and as you can see it is quite different from a Hot Head. First of all you will notice this torch has two knobs, a red one on top and a silver one of the side. That's because this is a dual-fuel torch. It uses two gasses to create the flame for melting and manipulating the glass.




This torch uses propane (which is controlled by the red knob) and oxygen (the silver knob) to create a hotter flame that is much quieter and better suited to melting the glass.



Many glass artists use this type of torch exclusively for their work. I used this torch for about three years of my nearly four years of lampworking.



When using a minor, the glass melts much faster, the bead colors are brighter and the flame can be adjusted to create several effects by adjusting the amount of oxygen in the flame (more on this in a later post also). I enjoyed using my minor, but it too had a few drawbacks such as its lack heat surrounding the flame and the inability to adjust the flame's width for doing detail work like laying down vines or melting in dots onto one of my grapevine beads.



With larger beads, not all of the bead could be in the flame and would tend to cool too quickly on the end outside of the flame which can lead to cracking and/or breakage which can be quite disheartening after working on a bead for twenty or thirty minutes and ending up with nothing to show for it but a pile of broken glass.





Carlisle Mini CC

Which brings me to the third torch, and the one I'm currently using in my glass work.





The Carlisle Mini CC is brass torch which creates an ambient pocket of heat around the flame to help keep the piece warmed enough to reduce the breakage on larger pieces. I still need to work on keeping the whole piece warmed while I work, but this torch does give me a little more wiggle room in that department.

The flame is also a bit...softer...in that it does not push against the glass with the force that the flame from my minor did. I know this sounds odd, but once you've worked with glass, you'll know what I mean.




The heat enveloping the torch also comes in handy when pre-heating a glass rod before putting it into the flame for melting which can reduce cracking and shattering of the rod before I can use it.

The cracking of a glass rod when being introduced to the flame is known as Shocking the glass. You may also hear it used as an adjective when describing a particular color as being Shocky (prone to cracking and breaking).


In addition to the ambient heat, the flame on this torch can be adjusted to wider or narrower by adjusting the amount of propane and oxygen supplied to the torch, which is another feature I really enjoy.

I hope you've enjoyed this quick comparison of torch features. If you have any questions, please feel free to post them and I'll try to reply with an answer.

Please feel free to check out my web site and shop at:
http://www.lampofluxury.com
http://BurningScentsations.etsy.com